After a few days in Guatapé we said goodbye to Colombia and flew from Medellin to Quito, Ecuador. Upon arrival we took taxi to our hotel and set in to rest for the evening and attempt a rapid acclimatization. To give you an idea, Medellin is at an altitude of 1,500 m (4,921 ft), Quito lies at 2,800 m (9,200 ft), and where we were headed the next day was even higher!
One of the activities I researched ahead of our trip was a mountain biking trip on Cotopaxi and the Quilotoa crater. While David is a fairly experienced mountain biker, I am more of a casual beach cruiser type of bike rider. I was assured by the owner of the tour company that so long as you could ride a bike then it would be no problem. He also said things like ¨it´s not a race¨and ¨take your time and go as slow or fast as you want.¨ This will come into play later on in the story.
Our guide picked us and one other person up from our hotel and we headed off for the tour. The weather was again grey and dreary. As we drove through the mountains to reach Cotopaxi the clouds were literally so low it felt as if they were pushing down on us. The weather seemed less than ideal but our guide wasn´t worried so we forged on.
At 5,897 m (19,347 ft), Cotopaxi is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world and the second highest mountain peak in Ecuador! It also has one of the few equatorial glaciers in the world. On a clear day you can see it´s snow capped cone towering over the highland plain and the valley below.
Our guide drove us through Cotopaxi park and up to a small museum where we took a break to stretch our legs and sample some coca tea, made from the leaves of the evil coca plant.
Té de coca
Yes, the coca plant is processed to make cocaine but the unprocessed leaves are perfectly legal and have been used for centuries by native people to ward off altitude sickness. When I studied abroad in Peru we drank lots of coca tea, ate coca hard candy, and chewed the leaves directly. It was David´s first time trying the tea and we both thoroughly enjoyed it! The flavor is similar to green tea but less grassy.
Yum!
After our little break it was time to continue on up the volcano to our starting point.
Our ride
Along the way we passed a foggy field with mossy boulders and wild horses grazing. It was absolutely gorgeous!
Wild horses
Throughout the entire ride through the park the vegetation was really interesting. We saw everything from pine forest, lichen fields, low scrubby brush with what looked like sea grasses, and wild flowers, up until we reached 4,000 m (13,123 ft) where the vegetation stopped. From there the ground was covered in dark crumbly soil and small rocks.
We stopped the car at a parking lot on the North face to begin our hike up to the climber´s refuge, a permanent camp set up for those climbing to the summit. At this point it was freezing rain, windy, and very cold! I hadn´t remembered that a hike was part of the trip but there was no time to chat as our native guide took off up the mountain.
The crumbly soil and the steep inclination made it a bit difficult to ascend but the real trouble was the altitude! Some people describe tiring easily and feeling short of breath but for me the main bother was the feeling that my heart was actually beating in my skull! My heartbeat was very fast and the pressure in my head was also uncomfortable. Coupled with the poor weather and even poorer visibility I was starting to wonder what was the point of this hike?! At around 4,700 m (15,419 ft) I found a nice rock to sit on and wait while the boys forged on to the refuge.
David and Casper at the refuge, 15,780 ft
From there it was a quick descent to the car where we picked up our bikes and helmets and set off on our further descent down the mountain. I was pretty nervous as I stared down the steep roads that zigged, zagged, and switch backed their way down the side of Cotopaxi, but there was nothing to do but go for it! The dirt road was bumpy, rocky, slippery, and soft in places and my whole body felt like it was in an agitator! The first 20 minutes was pretty much torture with the freezing rain – our hands had only the cheap, thin gloves provided by the tour and I almost thought my poor fingers were frozen solid!
Zooming down
After we made it back to the vegetation line the conditions improved and we were no longer being pelted by freezing rain. My hands began to thaw out and the crazy switch back roads were now straighter and had less incline. That´s not to say that I didn´t still have a death grip on my brakes!
A slight break in the clouds to reveal Cotopaxi´s snowy peak (look closely!)
At this point we had reached the highland plain and the roads leveled out. Thank goodness! From here it was pretty smooth sailing down to meet the car at the original tea stop. The sun even came out for a few minutes and we had to peel off jackets and gloves.
Flat roads!
When we met back up with the car lunch and a rest were waiting for us! My head was still pounding but was much less severe than during the hike. Knowing we still had a couple of hours in the car to our next destination I took a Dramamine and settled in for a backseat nap!
David, captivated by the Andes, stayed awake and took these pictures along the way.
Mountain drive
Blue skies peeking out!
I woke up from my nap in time to see our arrival to the small mountain community of Quilotoa, our lodging area for the night and the starting point of the next day´s bike ride! That´s right, there´s more! Stay tuned for Part 2…
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